Two years in Toronto

Ottawa – Toronto’s sedate cousin, Canada’s Canberra, the coldest capital in the western world. It was Queen Victoria’s decision to establish the nation’s parliament among this “ramshackle lumber town in the middle of nowhere”, as Tourist Information puts it. Her reason? Invading Americans would likely lose themselves in the surrounding forests. More romantically, Ottawa marks a confluence of communities and ideas: as an important trading route for thousands of years, the first European maps identified the river Ottawa after the Algonquin adawe (‘to trade’), and the city stands at the gateway between English- and French-speaking Canada. Today Ottawa remains understated as the capital of the world’s second largest country, but it has a charm and attractiveness that belie its unglamorous origins, and it’s consistently ranked as the best place to live in Canada. Mid-February sees Family Day, a statutory (bank) holiday in Ontario so that families can spend time together – but sin

Amazingly 31 days have passed since Air Canada delivered us to our new home, so here are 31 things we’ve discovered since then: 1.  We needn’t have worried about finding Nutella or Marmite: they’re everywhere. 2.  The US never feels far away, whether it’s the American names for food (eggplant makes aubergine less exotic, but beets is definitely cooler than beetroot), crazy sports (hockey involves a lot less grass over here), or the breathless pace of news bulletins. 3.   At the same time, Canadians are as British as you can be without developing a tea addiction: they’re ever so fond of anything royal, and always apologising. 4.  Talking of tea, if you ask for a cup here, you’re more likely to be served something fruity than English Breakfast. The idea of a builder’s brew hasn’t really made its way across the Atlantic. 5.   The political system is very similar to Westminster, with two main political parties – Liberals and Conservatives – sporting red and blue ro

What is there to do during a long winter in Toronto? We’ve found three different answers to that question this week, first with a trip to the Toronto Light Festival in the Distillery District. One of Canada’s National Historic Sites, the Distillery District (formerly the Gooderham and Worts Distillery) is North America’s largest collection of Victorian-era industrial buildings, and now houses a variety of boutique bistros and shops. In this charming location, local and international artists have designed striking works of light art – from an illuminated sign of peace decorated with religious and cultural symbols, to a structure that glows in response to piano music. The Festival’s organisers are aiming to “lift the collective spirit of the City”, drawing residents “out of their traditional indoor habitats to experience Toronto in a way they never have before”. And it seems to be working, judging by the small crowd that gathered after heavy snowfall on a bitterly cold Wednesday e

Ask residents of Toronto what excites them most about their hometown, and their answers will almost certainly include the food. The city hosts restaurants from around the globe – there’s a vibrant Mexican taberna less than a minute from our condo, and it took us only days to acquire a loyalty card for our local curry house – but in our first couple of weeks we’ve particularly enjoyed discovering the hallmarks of Canadian cuisine. Casual dining seems split between indulgent homely dishes, such as the renowned Kraft dinner (mac ’n’ cheese), and strict health food trends including raw plant-based dishes, acai jars and smoothie bowls. For something sweet the Canadian Mecca is Tim Hortons, a coffee and donut chain founded by (ice) hockey player Tim Horton in 1964. Canadians, who are apparently immune to diabetes, will stop by to pick up the archetypal pairing: a ‘double double’ (a coffee with two sugars and two splashes of cream) and a ‘Canadian Maple’ (a maple syrup-glazed donut with a

Like all large North American and European cities, downtown Toronto showcases the best of current fashion trends – something I've loved observing on my daily commute. The subway in particular is a melting pot of styles : the city workers in the latest office-wear chic ; the kooky glasses and vintage statement pieces adorning hipsters ; and those who prefer the ' I'm ready for the gym whenever the moment strikes me ' look, sporting gym-wear as day-wear. However, the Toronto streets are set apart from other major cities by the fur-lined, down-filled, waterproofed shells that encase these fashion ista s. My personal favourites include the typical Canada Goose winter jackets ; rubber overshoes to keep your leather brogues snow - and salt - free ; and cosy 'tuques' or knitted beanie hats (the word originated in Brittany but is now far removed from its French cheffing heritage). Before leaving the UK, Robert and I invested in Sorel snow boots, and