Thousand Islands

A holiday – at last! As we sped eastwards along the lake, our carriage full of masked passengers, we couldn’t convince ourselves that the pandemic was fully over. But after eighteen months of restrictions, it was a very welcome break. In less than three hours we had reached our destination: the Thousand Islands – a collection of 1,864 islands at the last count, along the Canada/US border, where the St. Lawrence River meets Lake Ontario. It seemed the ideal place for a little local exploring.

Our base for the trip was Gananoque, known as the Gateway to the 1000 Islands. An aboriginal name, Gananoque means “the town on two rivers” – the St. Lawrence and the Gananoque. (For pronunciation, try saying “there’s a right way, a wrong way, and Gananoque.”) The site of the first skirmish in the War of 1812 – when American forces raided the government depot in the town, hoping to disrupt British supply lines from Montreal – the town today is dominated by tourists and summer island-dwellers. A single main street down to the waterfront hosts many charming cafes and an excellent second-hand bookshop.

After arriving at a seemingly abandoned train station – think Anne of Green Gables – we quickly made our way to the river. Many of the 1,864 islands are very small – to qualify, an island must have a minimum of one square foot above water all year round, and at least one tree – but our cruise took us around some of the most luxurious estates. Top of the list was Boldt Castle, built by hotelier George Boldt for his wife Louise on a heart-shaped island (though sadly she died in 1904 before the project was finished). With a mini Arc de Triomphe and a Harry Potter-style aviary, the result was more Disneyland than European chateau.

As we motored around the islands we crossed from Canadian to American waters and back again. We passed the sunken wrecks of warships and steamers. We saw the shallows where smugglers would hide their alcohol in the days of Prohibition. And for a brief time we joined the St. Lawrence Seaway, the epic channel that enables cargo ships to travel all the way from Lake Superior to the Atlantic Ocean.

The highlight of our trip was a day’s kayaking around the Admiralty Islands, where the blazing sunshine and gentle breeze made for perfect conditions. Guided by the Canadian Bear Grylls – who had an endless supply of jokes at Britain’s expense – we paddled around 16km to see the islands from their best angle, as well as herons, osprey, hawks, vultures, turtles, and snakes. Many of the islands are private but several are national parks, and we enjoyed a lunchtime picnic on the southernmost, Aubrey, overlooking Lake Ontario. Perhaps the most renowned spot is Half Moon Bay, the site of Christian services for over 100 years – the cove’s natural acoustics mean attendees can hear the sermons from their boats – and Indigenous ceremonies for centuries before that.

Returning home and sharing our travels with our colleagues, we discovered that the Thousand Islands are often taken for granted – a place for school trips, a fleeting moment on a vast ocean highway – but for us it was an idyllic holiday destination. Once again, we found that Canada’s natural scenery is its most beautiful feature. And this time we learned: the best way to see it is from the water.